Brussels Keto

Carbonnade Flamande on Keto

Published Mar 15, 2024 by at https://brusselsketo.com/posts/carbonnade-flamande-keto/

Carbonnade flamande — beef slow-braised in Belgian beer with onions, thyme, and bay — looks like a problem on keto because of the beer. It isn’t, really. The dish braises for two to three hours, and over that time the alcohol cooks off entirely and a significant portion of the sugars in the beer reduce and concentrate into the sauce. What’s left is a small amount of residual carbohydrate distributed across several portions. A reasonable serving of carbonnade is around 8-12g of carbs depending on the recipe and how much sauce you eat. For most people doing keto, that’s workable.

The actual problem with carbonnade flamande is the frites. The dish is served with frites as a matter of course in Belgian restaurants and homes, and the frites are not workable. Swap them out — celeriac mash, cauliflower, roasted vegetables — and you have a genuinely good keto meal.

The beer question

Traditional carbonnade uses a Belgian brown ale or amber beer — Leffe Brune, Chimay Red, or a dubbel. Some recipes use a gueuze or lambic for more acidity. The beer matters for flavour and you shouldn’t substitute water or stock, but you also don’t need to use a full bottle. Most recipes call for 250-330ml, the rest of the liquid coming from beef stock.

The sugars that remain after a long braise come partly from the beer and partly from the onions, which caramelise slowly into the sauce. This is what gives carbonnade its characteristic sweet-savoury balance. You can reduce the onion quantity slightly if you want to bring the carbs down further, but the dish loses something.

A straightforward recipe

For four portions:

  • 800g beef chuck or stewing beef, cut into large pieces
  • 3 medium onions, sliced
  • 250ml Belgian brown ale
  • 250ml beef stock
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1 tablespoon of mustard spread on a slice of pain d’épice or dark bread — this is traditional and adds body to the sauce; the amount of carbs from one slice of bread across four portions is small but you can skip it and use a teaspoon of mustard stirred directly into the sauce instead
  • Thyme, bay, salt, pepper

Brown the beef in batches in the butter until properly coloured. Remove. Cook the onions slowly in the same pan until soft and beginning to caramelise, about 15 minutes. Return the beef, add the beer and stock, tuck in the herbs and the mustard bread if using. Cover and braise at 150°C for 2.5 to 3 hours until the beef is tender and the sauce has reduced and thickened.

Serve with celeriac mash — peel and cube a celeriac, boil until tender, mash with butter and cream. It takes on the carbonnade sauce well and is a far better pairing than cauliflower mash, which is too watery.

In restaurants

Carbonnade flamande is on the menu at most Brussels brasseries, usually listed as stoofvlees in Dutch or carbonnade à la flamande in French. Order it and ask for salade verte or légumes instead of frites. This is a normal request and will be accommodated without drama.

The quality varies considerably between restaurants. Made well, with good beef and a decent beer, it’s one of the best things Belgian cooking produces. Made badly it’s grey meat in thin brown liquid. The brasseries that take it seriously will tell you it takes three hours to make. The ones that don’t will be vaguer about the timing.

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