Paling in ’t groen — eel in green sauce — is one of the oldest dishes in Belgian cuisine and one of the least known outside of it. It originated along the rivers and waterways of the Scheldt basin, particularly around Mechelen and the towns between Ghent and Antwerp, where freshwater eel was abundant. The green sauce is made from a mixture of fresh herbs — sorrel, parsley, chervil, watercress, sometimes spinach or nettle — cooked briefly in butter with the eel and finished with a little lemon juice or white wine vinegar.

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Steak tartare is raw minced beef mixed with egg yolk, mustard, capers, shallots, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, and parsley, served with toast or frites on the side. Remove the toast and the frites and what you have is a dish that is almost entirely fat and protein with negligible carbs. It’s one of the best things on a Brussels brasserie menu and it requires no modification whatsoever, just the standard request to swap the side for a salad.

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Finding authentic Mexican food in Europe is genuinely difficult. Most of what presents itself as Mexican in European cities is TexMex — hard shell tacos, fajita platters, nachos with orange cheese sauce — which is its own thing and not the same as Mexican cooking. El Mexicanito on Rue Saint-Boniface in Ixelles is an exception, and a notable one. The food is the real thing: proper mole, slow-cooked meats, the salsas and flavour profiles that actually come from Mexico rather than from a casual dining franchise manual.

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The friterie — the Belgian chip shop — is a cultural institution. They’re on street corners, in converted trailers, in small rooms with a counter and a deep fryer and a laminated menu of sauces. Brussels has hundreds of them. The frites they produce are genuinely good, cooked twice in beef fat or oil, and the smell is designed to make you forget what you were trying to do. You are not there for the frites.

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Waterzooi is one of those dishes that requires almost no adaptation for keto because there’s almost nothing in it that isn’t already keto-friendly. Chicken or fish, root vegetables, cream, egg yolks, stock. That’s most of it. You don’t need to swap anything out or make any substitutions. You just make it and eat it. It originated in Ghent — the name roughly translates as “watery mess” in old Dutch, which undersells it considerably.

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Carbonnade flamande — beef slow-braised in Belgian beer with onions, thyme, and bay — looks like a problem on keto because of the beer. It isn’t, really. The dish braises for two to three hours, and over that time the alcohol cooks off entirely and a significant portion of the sugars in the beer reduce and concentrate into the sauce. What’s left is a small amount of residual carbohydrate distributed across several portions.

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Belgian winter food is stews, braises, roasted meats, cheese, and things cooked for a long time in red wine or beer. Most of this is excellent for keto. The season does most of the work for you, in terms of aligning what you want to eat with what you’re supposed to eat. February is also grey and cold in a specific Brussels way — not dramatically cold, but persistently damp and dark in a way that makes you want to eat something heavy and sit near a radiator.

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A month is long enough to know whether something is working and short enough that you haven’t adjusted your life completely around it. Here’s what I actually found out. What was harder than expected The bread. I knew intellectually that Belgium is a bread culture and that every meal would involve bread somewhere nearby, but knowing it and living it are different things. The basket of bread that appears automatically at Belgian restaurants before you’ve looked at the menu.

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Belgian food has a reputation for being heavy, which in keto terms actually works in your favour more often than you’d expect. A lot of the classics are built around meat, fish, and cream-based sauces — the problem is usually the accompaniment rather than the dish itself. What adapts well Stoofvlees — beef slow-cooked in beer with thyme and bay — is the Belgian comfort food. The dish itself is fine on keto, but the traditional pairing with frites is obviously not.

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The standard Belgian breakfast is tartines — bread with butter and jam, or butter and speculoos spread, or cheese. Maybe a boiled egg if someone is being ambitious. It’s perfectly nice and also entirely off-limits on keto, which means you need a different approach from day one. The good news is that the alternatives are straightforward and the ingredients are easy to find. The bad news is that you will eat a lot of eggs.

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